Frequently Asked Questions

It varies by style, finish, and site — which is exactly why we built the calculator. Rather than quote a "from" price that won't match your job, enter your measurements and the calculator returns your exact materials total with every line item priced. Supply-only (DIY) through Barrier Hub is significantly cheaper than going through a traditional installer, because you're not paying installer labour. For a typical residential pool perimeter with one gate, the calculator gives you the real number before you decide.

Everything you need to build the fence: glass panels sized to your run, spigots, hinges, latches, fixings, gates, and grout. Not "starting from." Not "plus hardware." Every part with its price. What's not in the calculator price: freight (calculated at checkout based on your delivery address), and any site-specific engineering you might need for non-standard installations (sloped ground over a certain gradient, retaining walls integrated into the fence, commercial or multi-residential).

Semi-frameless typically runs less than frameless because the posts do more of the structural work and the glass panels are smaller and less expensive. Frameless looks cleaner, no visible posts between panels, but costs more. For most residential pools, frameless is the right choice if budget allows: the visual difference is significant and frameless holds its value better. Semi-frameless makes sense on longer runs or where the post-and-panel look fits the property. The calculator prices both so you can compare your actual job.

Glass for unobstructed views and a premium finish. Aluminium for budget, faster install, and longer perimeters. The honest trade-offs: - Frameless glass: best appearance, but heavier panels to handle and more precision on install. Sits at the top of the range. - Aluminium tubular or BARR: faster install, easier DIY, less impact on the look of your yard. The more budget-friendly choice. - BARR aluminium (modern flat slat system): middle ground — a modern look closer to glass, easier than glass to install, lower cost. If you're staring at a long perimeter or rough ground, aluminium will save you money and effort. If view through the fence is the main reason you're doing this, go glass. The calculator prices each style for your run so you can see the real difference.

All pool fencing in Australia must comply with Australian Standard AS 1926.1. The core requirements: - Barrier height: at least 1200mm measured from the finished ground level on the outside of the fence. - Non-climbable zone: no climbable objects within 900mm of the barrier — this includes furniture, pot plants, pool pumps, BBQs, and stored items. - No gap larger than 100mm anywhere — under the fence, between panels, around gates. - Gates: must be self-closing and self-latching, swing away from the pool, with the latch at least 1500mm above ground or shielded on the pool side. - Glass: must be Grade A safety glass marked to AS/NZS 2208. Each state adds administrative requirements on top of AS 1926.1: registration, inspection cycles, compliance certificates. Queensland and Victoria are the strictest. See our state-by-state guides for the specifics.

There's no way to confirm compliance without an inspection — but you can self-check the four most common failure points: 1. Gate: does it self-close and self-latch from every open position? Is the latch at least 1500mm above ground, or shielded on the pool side? 2. Height: is the barrier at least 1200mm measured from outside ground level? Has soil or paving built up around the base, effectively reducing the height? 3. Climbable objects: is there anything within 900mm of the fence on the outside that could be used as a foothold? BBQ, pot plants, pool pumps, retaining walls, tree branches? 4. Gaps: can you pass a 100mm ball under the fence or through any panel join? If any of these are uncertain, get a licensed pool inspector to assess. Inspection fees vary — NSW caps council inspections around $150, private certifiers run $200–$500, Queensland Pool Safety Inspectors typically charge $200–$350 for a certificate.

The non-climbable zone is a 900mm bubble around the outside of your pool fence — no climbable objects allowed within that zone. The single most common pool fence inspection failure in Australia is something in this zone: a pot plant, a BBQ, a pool pump housing, stored items, garden furniture, a retaining wall. Even something placed there temporarily for a party can fail an inspection if it's there at the moment the inspector is on site. The rule is enforced at the time of inspection, not at the time of install. Trees and shrubs matter too — pruning a dense soft shrub can turn it into climbable trunks and branches. If you plan landscaping near a pool fence, plan for the non-climbable zone first.

Sometimes. A boundary fence can act as a pool barrier if it's at least 1800mm high on the pool side, has no climbable objects or footholds within 900mm of the top on the pool side, and meets the same gap rules as a pool fence. The fence must also be in good condition — older timber boundary fences often have horizontal rails on the pool side that count as climbable footholds and disqualify them. In NSW and Victoria specifically, boundary-fence-as-pool- barrier is more closely scrutinised than internal fencing. If you're not sure, treat it as if it isn't and put a separate pool barrier in the right zone.

Outside the 900mm non-climbable zone — and that includes the pool pump housing, filter, pool cleaner storage, plumbing, and any electrical enclosure. If the pool pump itself or its housing is within 900mm of the fence, it's a foothold and a guaranteed compliance failure. For above-ground pools, the barrier must also be at least 300mm clear of the pool ladder, pump and filter — measured from the equipment, not from the pool wall. If your pool pump is currently within the non-climbable zone, you have two options: relocate it, or move the fence so the equipment sits outside the zone.

The national standard is AS 1926.1. Each state and territory has its own administrative layer: - NSW: Swimming Pools Act 1992, mandatory registration on the NSW Swimming Pool Register, compliance certificate required for sale or lease. - Victoria: Building Regulations 2018, mandatory pool barrier registration, 4-yearly inspection cycle, compliance certificate via municipal building surveyor. - Queensland: Building Act 1975, Pool Safety Standard, pool safety certificate required for sale or lease, QBCC oversight. - Western Australia: Building Regulations 2012, four-yearly council inspection. - South Australia: Planning, Development and Infrastructure Act 2016, development approval required for new installations. - Tasmania: Building Act 2016, council inspection regime. - ACT: Building Act 2004, certifier inspection; 2024–2028 transition reforms for pre-existing pools. - NT: Building Act 1993 and Swimming Pool Safety Act 2002. Our state-by-state guides cover registration, inspection costs, common failure points, and council fee structures for each.

You get a written report listing what needs to be fixed, a timeline to fix it, and a re-inspection fee for when you're ready to be re-checked. Re-inspection fees typically run $50–$150 depending on the certifier. Common things inspectors flag: gate not self-latching reliably, latch height, gaps, climbable objects in the non-climbable zone, glass not marked to AS/NZS 2208, ground levels that reduce effective fence height. Most are fixable in an afternoon. The exception is glass marking — if your glass isn't permanently marked to AS/NZS 2208, you can't add the marking later, you have to replace the panel. In states with registration requirements (NSW, VIC, QLD), a failed inspection doesn't pause the registration clock — you still need to bring the fence to compliance within the period set by the certifier or your council can issue penalty units.

AS 1926.1 governs the child-safety geometry of pool barriers — height, non-climbable zones, gap rules, gate behaviour. It's the standard your pool fence must meet. AS 1288 governs the structural performance of glass in buildings — including balustrade glazing where the fall height or load requirements are different from pool fencing. It's the standard your glass balustrade must meet. Pool fences are AS 1926.1. Balustrades (decks, balconies, stairs, mezzanines) are AS 1288. Some pool-area balustrade installations need to satisfy both standards simultaneously — for example, a deck overlooking a pool where the deck edge is also acting as the pool barrier. If you're unsure which standard applies, the calculator handles this automatically based on the application you select (Pool fencing vs Balustrade).

Yes. That's what Barrier Hub is built for. The honest answer on difficulty: - Frameless pool fencing (12mm glass on spigots): doable solo if you have basic concrete experience and a level. Each glass panel weighs 25–35kg — manageable solo, easier with two people. - Aluminium systems (BARR, Blade, Flat Top Tubular): easier than glass. Aluminium handles more forgivingly, with lower precision tolerances. - Frameless balustrade (15mm glass): harder solo. Heavier panels, tighter tolerances, higher load requirements. Every kit ships with installation instructions specific to your spigot range and substrate. If you have questions during install, Joe (our AI assistant) can walk you through the trade-offs. You may want professional installation if your job involves commercial premises, multi-residential, or anything outside standard residential single-family — site-specific engineering may be required.

For a standard concrete substrate install: - Diamond core drill (hire from a tool yard — typically $50–$100/day) for spigot holes if you're core-drilling. - Hammer drill for chemical-set anchors if you're base-plating instead of core-drilling. - Spirit level (decent 1200mm minimum) and string line. - Torque wrench for spigot bolt tightening to spec. - Glass suckers for panel handling (essential — don't try without them). - Standard hand tools: spanners, sockets, hex keys. For timber decking or steel substrate, you'll need different fixings but most of the same tools. The instruction sheet that ships with your kit lists everything needed. What you don't need: specialist glass-cutting tools (panels arrive cut to your spec) or compliance testing equipment (the calculator outputs configurations that meet the standard).

Yes, but the approach changes depending on the slope. For gentle slopes under about 1 in 30 (roughly 2 degrees), most frameless spigot installs handle the variation by raking the spigots — each spigot rotates slightly to keep the glass plumb while the run follows the ground. Standard kits handle this. For steeper slopes, you have two approaches: stepped panels (the fence steps down in discrete jumps, each section level) or raked panels (each panel sits at an angle following the ground). Stepped is cleaner-looking; raked needs more careful set-out but follows the ground continuously. For aluminium tubular systems, raked panels are standard — they handle slope better than glass with less set-out work. If you have significant grade changes or retaining walls integrated into the fence run, mention it in your order or contact us first — we'll verify the configuration before you commit.

Usually yes. Glass pool fences mount to: - Concrete slabs or pool coping: most common, easiest mount, requires core-drilling or base-plate. - Timber decking: uses through-bolts to the deck joists, requires careful joist location. - Steel deck or steel post: uses welded or bolted brackets. - Brick or concrete walls: for fence-to-wall transitions, side-mount brackets or wall plates. Mounting to existing retaining walls works if the wall is structural and at least 100mm thick reinforced concrete or equivalent. Mounting to timber retaining walls is possible but requires the wall to be in good condition with no rot. The calculator asks for substrate type so it can spec the right fixings. If your job mixes substrates (concrete pool surround into timber deck into wall), the kit will include the right hardware for each section.

Yes — the 1200mm minimum height is measured from the outside finished ground level. If your fence runs along a pool coping that's higher than the surrounding ground, the effective height on the outside is whatever the lower side is. Common mistake: measuring fence height from the pool side. The inspector measures from the outside. If you have planters, garden beds, or paving outside the fence, plan their final height before you install. Soil settled to within 50mm of the top of a paver bed counts as effective ground level. So does mulch built up over time. If you're not sure where your "outside ground level" will be after landscaping is finished, install the fence higher than the minimum and trim once landscaping is done.

Pool fencing: 12mm toughened glass is the Australian standard. AS 1926.1 calls for it for the standard configuration. Balustrade: 12mm for standard residential applications where the fall height and load are within standard residential limits. 15mm for staircases, longer panel runs, balconies above ground level, or anywhere AS 1288 wind load or crowd load calculations call for it. 15mm is heavier, harder to handle solo, and more expensive — use it where you need it, not by default. All our glass is Grade A toughened safety glass marked to AS/NZS 2208, the Australian Standard required for any barrier glass.

Every panel of Grade A toughened safety glass to AS/NZS 2208 carries a permanent stamp in the corner — typically the manufacturer's logo, the standard (AS/NZS 2208), the grade (A), and the thickness. The stamp is etched or sandblasted into the glass and is permanent. You can't add the stamp after installation. If you receive a panel without the stamp, don't install it — contact us, we'll replace it. This is one of the most common inspection failures, and it's the one with the worst remediation: if the panel isn't marked, it has to be replaced. So check on delivery.

Marine-grade 316 stainless steel for all spigots, hinges, latches, and structural hardware. Glass pool fences sit in chlorinated, salinated environments, anything less than 316 corrodes prematurely. We don't substitute lower grades. Spigot ranges include Madrid, Madrid Pool, Lifestyle, Rio, and Insuluxe. Gate hinges and latches include Master Range, Polaris, and Atlantic. Each range has different mounting methods, finishes, and price points. The calculator selects the right hardware for your job; if you want to choose specifically, Joe can explain the trade-offs.

Polished stainless steel, satin (brushed) stainless steel, and coated stainless steel finishes (matt black, matt white, and other colours). The hardware finishes match across the kit — spigots, hinges, latches, and clamps all come in your chosen finish. The honest finish trade-offs: - Polished stainless steel is the most durable finish. Best for all environments — coastal, high humidity, inland. This is the safe default. - Satin (brushed) stainless steel isn't recommended for coastal or high-humidity locations. The brushed texture holds moisture and can show tea-staining over time. Generally better suited to internal use or sheltered outdoor areas only. - Coated stainless steel (matt black, matt white) is stainless underneath with a powder-coat finish on top. Looks great with modern homes but the powder-coat can wear at high-touch points (latch handles, gate pivots) over many years. All our aluminium products (BARR, Blade, Flat Top Tubular, Visor systems) are powder-coated as standard. Powder-coat on aluminium is a durable finish suited to all Australian environments including coastal.

Soft-close hinges (Polaris and Atlantic ranges) close the gate gently rather than slamming — they use a hydraulic damper inside the hinge. They cost more than standard spring hinges but they don't fail the way standard spring hinges sometimes do under real-world conditions. Standard spring hinges work fine when adjusted correctly. Soft-close hinges work fine even when adjusted poorly. If you have only one access gate to your pool area, soft-close is worth the extra cost — gate hardware failure is the single most common pool fence compliance issue. Soft-close hinges fit specific gate types (the gate has a cutout for the closing mechanism). The calculator pairs the right gate with the right hinge automatically.

If your pool fence is the barrier between your pool and any other area (house, garden, driveway, neighbour), you need at least one compliant gate. Compliant pool gates must: - Self-close from any open position — the gate must close and latch by itself, not require you to push it. - Self-latch when closed. - Swing away from the pool, not into it. - Have the latch at least 1500mm above ground (measured from outside finished ground level) OR shielded on the pool side behind the 1200mm fence. - Have no gap underneath larger than 100mm. Gate hardware is the single most common cause of pool fence inspection failure. If you have only one access point, plan it carefully.

Sometimes. The NCC and AS 1288 set out when a handrail is required, and the rules depend on the balustrade height, the fall height, and the type of system. Generally: - Residential balustrade under 1m fall height with frameless glass: no top handrail required if the glass is engineered to AS 1288 and the spigots/clamps are tested to the system. - Residential balustrade over 1m fall height or staircase balustrade: top handrail typically required, either an aluminium top rail or a continuous handrail bracket. - Commercial or public balustrade: handrails are usually mandatory regardless of fall height. If you're installing balustrade above a deck more than 1 metre off the ground, or on a staircase, the calculator will spec the right system with handrail where required.

Yes. There's no minimum order quantity. If you've damaged a panel or need a replacement spigot, you can order single items. For replacement glass to an existing fence: measure the existing panel exactly, confirm the thickness, and order the same dimensions. If you're not sure of the spigot range or the panel dimensions, email us with photos and measurements at hello@barrierhub.com.au and we'll help match it.

No, we don't offer an onsite measure service. We're set up for customers who can measure their own job and configure the order themselves. What we can do is help you measure confidently. Our measuring guide walks through it step by step with diagrams, and Joe can answer specific questions about your layout. If you send us a sketch with your measurements before you order, we can spot-check it for you and flag anything that looks off. If your project is genuinely complex (commercial, multi-residential, significant grade changes, retaining walls integrated into the run), email us at hello@barrierhub.com.au and we can talk through the options.

We operate from a national warehouse network. When you order, your products ship from the warehouse closest to you, not from a single Melbourne or Sydney depot. That keeps freight cost down and gets product to you faster. Standard delivery is 5–10 business days depending on your location. Tasmania, Northern Territory and remote regional addresses take longer because of vehicle-on-boat or extended freight routes — we'll confirm the lead time before checkout. When your order arrives, open the packaging within 7 days even if you're not installing yet. Photograph any damage immediately and email us at hello@barrierhub.com.au with photos and your order reference. Day-of-receipt damage is fully covered. After 7 days, damage claims are harder to support.

Yes. Pickups are typically available next day from the depot nearest your stock, selectable at checkout. You'll receive a pickup confirmation with the depot address and hours once your order is ready. Bring your order reference and photo ID to the depot. For larger orders, bring a vehicle suitable for carrying glass panels safely — typically a ute, trailer, or van. The depot staff can help load.

Under the Australian Consumer Law, you're entitled to a replacement or refund for products with a major failure, products that don't match their description, are unfit for purpose, or that you wouldn't have purchased knowing about the problem. We cover: - Products damaged in transit (report within 7 days of delivery with photos). - Products that don't match their description. - Manufacturing defects within the warranty period. Email hello@barrierhub.com.au with your order reference, the issue, and photos. We assess within 2 business days and arrange replacement or refund. Custom-cut glass panels can't be returned for change of mind — they're cut to your specified dimensions and have no resale value. Standard hardware can be considered on a case-by-case basis if unused and in original packaging.

Manufacturer warranties apply on all products. Specific warranty periods depend on the product range and accompany delivery documentation. Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply regardless of any warranty period, you're entitled to a refund or replacement for products with a major failure, even outside the warranty window.

Yes. Card payments are processed by Stripe, which is PCI-DSS Level 1 certified — the highest level of payment card industry security. We never see or store your card details. If you prefer bank transfer or PayID, email us at hello@barrierhub.com.au and we'll send the details. We don't publish banking details on the website — that's standard fraud-prevention practice.

Enter your measurements, total fence length, number of corners, and whether you need a gate. Select your system type (frameless spigot, flat top, BARR, or blade). The calculator generates a complete list of materials with every component, quantity, and current pricing from our supplier.

Measure the total linear length of fencing required in millimetres. Count the number of corners (90-degree turns). Note where you want the gate positioned. Our calculator handles the rest, selecting appropriate panel widths and calculating spigot or post spacing. See our measurement guide for detailed instructions.